Melaka Trip 29-31 Dec

This was a backpack trip to Melaka.

I meet my friend at Kranji MRT and took a bus across the border to the Larkin bus terminal. We reach Larkin about 9:40am and went around looking for a coach to Melaka. The price of the coach ticket to Melaka were all RM19. However different bus companies had different departure times. We bought one which departed at 10am.

The coach was quite new and it was pretty comfortable. It departed on bus and only stopped briefly at a rest stop for a toilet break. We reached Melaka Sentral station at 1pm.

From the Sentral bus station, we took the Panaroma bus (RM1) to Chinatown.


Jalan-Jalan Guesthouse

I had booked guesthouse which was right in the middle of Chinatown. It was a relatively new guesthouse called Jalan-jalan along Jalan Tukang Emas,just a stone's throw away from the Kiling Mosque (see pic). The manager Sam had converted it from a tradition shophouse that was in ruins into a guesthouse just a few months ago.

I paid RM35 per night for a twin private room. For that kind of price, you really can't expect much. It was a small room with a double-decked bed and a fan (no air-con of course). There is a common toilet and bathroom and there is hot water shower. You get free use of internet service as well, but as there is only one computer, you have to wait if someone is using.

It's basic, but the house has a nice character. However, my friend did not sleep very well because the bed was rather creaky. I liked the location as it was convenient to wander around Chinatown.



Chinatown

Jonker street was the tourist belt in Chinatown. The place is being invaded by tourists with the award of UNESCO heritage status to the old town. Tourist souvenir shops, galleries and eateries are over taking the houses.

However, if you wander beyond the tourist belt (not many tourists do), you will discover the charming part of Chinatown. There are many distributors still plying their trades there (I saw dried food, cigerates, plastic wares, coconut milk, metal ware). There were also many craftsmen still working their crafts there. I saw a metal smith smelting a cleaver, an old man making wooden buckets, rattan weavers, a lady making popiah skins. There are interesting things to see, if you have the interest to look for them.




Baba Nonya Heritage Museum

I visited the Baba Nonya Heritage Museum. It is a private museum. The entrance fee of RM8 comes with a guided tour.

It is well worth the money and I would strongly recommend any one visiting Melaka to drop by.

The museum was owned by a third generation baba family. The collection were actual items used by the previous generations. Obviously, the family was very rich.

The guide told me that she was seeing a sudden spike in Singaporean tourists, obviously thanks to the Media Corp TV serial Little Nonya. According to her, previously, most Singaporean visitors were students. But recently, she was seeing a lot more Singapore tour groups and visitors.


Dutch Square

I guess a visit to Melaka would not be complete without a visit to the Dutch Square and St Paul's Church. It's a nice visit, but nothing particularly special.







A walk through the cemetry

Bukit Cina is the Chinese cemetry ground. There is a small temple at the foot of the temple. I thought the temple was supposed to be dedicated to the Admiral Cheng Ho of Ming dynasty, but the statue of the admiral was at a corner outside the shrine hall.

It was quite pleasant walk through the cemetry grounds to the top of the hill.





Cendol

I lost count of how many bowls of cendol I ate over the 3 days in Melaka.

Cendol in Melaka is good. Rich cococut cream, thick and sticky gula-melaka (palm suger) makes this unforgetable. You just don't get the same thing in Singapore!

雷雨

我是一蕾忍不住的春天
为你的来到绽出少年
而你却远远打住
望不见我翕敛的眼睑

你是夏末的一场焦躁的雷雨
匆匆促促自来自去
明天时干干净净
把我的心事全都不许

安克强《我恋你依然如昔》

Acquired taste

This morning I made a cup of coffee from a coffee bag. It was only half way through the coffee that I realized that the coffee appeared to be unsweetened at all. What I was amazed is that I was not even aware that it was unsweetened.

I remember many years ago, I made unsweetened coffee for my diabetic uncle. I had a taste and found it totally "undrinkable".

Yet, unsweetened coffee is now quite palatable.

It's all really an acquired taste. For the past year, I have been reducing sugar intake for health reasons. Over time, I guess my palates must have adjusted.

I remember when I was very young, I hated vegetables. Back then, becoming vegetarian is probably unimaginable. Yet I have been a vegetarian for 8 years now. Again, it was a slow process of getting acquainted with vegetables over time. In my teens, when I realized I was not going to get enough nutrition if I don't eat any vegetables, I forced myself to eat some every time. But the time, I was ready to become vegetarian, it was not a problem any more.

Taste can be acquired and changed over time. So too habits and practice can be changed.

I think I need to apply the same attitude towards the practice of meditation. It's something I have not been able to get into regular practice yet.

It will be a good new year resolution and I will start with observing a day of silence and meditation at a temple on New Year's day.

《印记》

不要因为也许会改变
就不肯说那句美丽的誓言
不要因为也许会分离
就不敢求一次倾心相遇

总有一些什么
会留下来吧
留下来作一件不灭的印记
好让 好让那些
不相识的人也能知道
我曾经怎么深深地爱过你

席慕蓉《印记》

快乐是一种选择

幸福掌握在自己手里，
快乐是一种选择。

我常常这么想。快乐就是一种人生观，乐观则幸福，悲观则忧伤。

最近一个朋友选择了一很不错的男朋友，感到非常幸福，也觉得快乐是是一种选择。其他朋友也都祝福他们。

然而“有来只见新人笑，有谁听见旧人哭？”

这次，我看见旧人哭了。

猛然发现，原来，“快乐是一种选择”，对在选择中被抛弃的人，是多么残酷的。

Dhammavadaka & Desiderata

Dhammavadaka

Remember always that you are just a visitor here, a traveler passing through. Your stay is but short and the moment of your departure unknown.

None can live without toil, and a craft that provides your needs is a blessing indeed. But if you toil without rest, fatigue and weariness will overtake you, and you will be denied the joy that comes from labour’s end.

Speaking quietly and kindly and be not forward with either opinions or advice. If you talk much, this will make you deaf to what others say, and you should know that there are few so wise that they cannot learn from others.

Be near when help is needed, but far when praise and thanks are being offered.

Take small account of might, wealth and fame, for they soon pass and are forgotten. Instead, nurture love within you and strive to be a friend to all. Truly, compassion is a balm for many wounds.

Treasure silence when you find it, and while being mindful of your duties, set time aside, to be alone with yourself. Cast off pretense and self-deception and see yourself as you really are.

Despite all appearances, no one is really evil. They are led astray by ignorance. If you ponder this truth always you will offer more light, rather than blame and condemnation.

You, no less than all beings, have Buddha Nature within. Your essential Mind is pure.Therefore, when defilements cause you to stumble and fall, let not remorse nor dark foreboding cast you down. Be of good cheer and with this understanding, summon strength and walk on.

Faith is like a lamp and wisdom makes the flame burn bright. Carry this lamp always and in good time the darkness will yield and you will abide in the light.

---

Desiderata

Go placidly amid the noise and haste,
and remember what peace there may be in silence.
As far as possible, without surrender, be on good terms with all persons.
Speak your truth quietly and clearly; and listen to others,
even to the dull and ignorant; they too have their story.

Avoid loud and aggressive persons, they are vexations to the spirit.
If you compare yourself with others, you may become vain and bitter,
for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself.
Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans.

Keep interested in your own career, however humble;
it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time.
Exercise caution in your business affairs,
for the world is full of trickery.
But let this not blind you to what virtue there is;
many persons strive for high ideals,
and everywhere life is full of heroism.

Be yourself. Especially do not feign affection.
Neither be cynical about love;
for in the face of all aridity and disenchantment
it is as perennial as the grass.
Take kindly the counsel of the years,
gracefully surrendering the things of youth.
Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden misfortune.
But do not distress yourself with dark imaginings.
Many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness.

Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself.
You are a child of the universe no less than the trees and the stars;
you have a right to be here. And whether or not it is clear to you,
no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should.

Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be.
And whatever your labors and aspirations,
in the noisy confusion of life, keep peace with your soul.
With all its sham, drudgery and broken dreams,
it is still a beautiful world.
Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

Shocking fraud

The massive Madoff fraud had been on the news for the past few days. It has been described as a "Ponzi scheme of epic proportions" and as much as $50 billion could be lost.

Most of the news had been pinpointing Bernard Madoff who allegedly perpetrated the fraud.

But I had it hard to believe that only one person is involved in a massive fraud on such scale.

As Andy Serwer of Fortune Magazine said, "I say that for Madoff to perpetrate this fraud alone would have been next to impossible given the scale of the business."

Surely, those people who worked in Madoff would have figured out something was not quite right along the way. There had to be at least a few people highly placed enough to figure out what was going on even if Madoff had not said it out right that the whole thing was but a Ponzi scheme, such people who prepare the accounts and financial statements. Even if people could not figure out what was actually going on, some would surely detect that something suspicious was going on.

I think that for such a massive fraud to be possible, there must have been many other people who were either willing participants, or were inclined to look away from what would have been tell tale signs.

If the whole fraud were purely mastered mind and carried by Madoff alone, that would have been shocking indeed, for that seemed like quite an impossible feat. And if it were not, it must have involved many people, and it would be just as shocking as well. How is it that none of them had the conscience to ring the alarm bell? What happened to human conscience?

《忍不住》

山忍不住高耸
水忍不住淙淙
鸟忍不住飞翔
风忍不住吹动

一朵花在属于她的早晨忍不住开放
一颗种籽在冬日将尽忍不住探头
一束阳光在雨后忍不住微笑
一片云在委屈时忍不住落泪
一个我在撞见一个你之后忍不住喜欢

玻璃忍不住透明
水草忍不住摇动
星空忍不住繁荣
海洋忍不住浩瀚

一只鱼在池塘里忍不住赤裸
一只曲子在激情时忍不住高亢
一只云雀在风中忍不住歌唱
一只画笔在五彩里忍不住灿烂
一隻我遇见一隻之后忍不住成雙

王胜宏 《忍不住》

《戀歌》

我要唱最后的戀歌　
像春蠺吐最后的絲
願你美麗的前途無限　
而我可憐的愛情並不自私
秋來樹木都應結果　
多餘花卉徒亂天時
長長的旅途布滿寂寞　
黯淡的雲端　
深藏燦爛的日子

開闊的河流難被阻塞　
偉大的胸襟應容苦痛
人間並無不老的青春　
天國方有不醒的美夢
願我有歌可長留此間　
贊美那天賜的恩寵
使我在人間會相信奇跡　
暮色裡仍有五彩長虹

徐訏《戀歌》

人心骤变

人心骤变，无关道义。
一场感情事件里，
高估了所有的人，
也明白自己并不比谁清高... ...

取自李岳华的《红颜男子》

一直以为人心是慢慢变的。
突然看见骤变，不经错愕。
那是多少日子以来，因缘累积的突发，
还是人心真的说变就变？
不是当事人，说不出缘由。
只是发现，原来真的高估了一些人，
也明白，自己，不比谁清高。

取暖

相遇一刹，千偈难解。
互相取暖，又能交换多少温度？

-李岳华《红颜男子》

Pindapata

Yesterday, I participated in a small simple alms gathering at BDMS (Pindapata).

Pindapata is not practiced in Singapore. (Begging is outlawed in Singapore, and what muddles the situation is there are bogus monks who begged for money instead of gathering food). Occasionally, some temples do hold pindapata within their temple grounds.

This is the third time I participated in a Pindapata.

The first time was at Bago in Burma. It was an interesting experience. I got a lot of "guidance" from the locals, telling me where to wait and what to do as the monks come by. I got lots of stares from the monks and novices as well (the monks were from a monastary that took in many orphans as novices). Apparently, though ocassionally tourists do wake up early to see the alms round, few actually participated.

The second time I did it was at Luang Prabang in Laos. It was a really bad experience. The problem was that there were a group of touts who targetted tourists. They push their food to the tourists as they were offering food to the monks. Then they started asking for outragous amount of money. We got confused and when we refused to pay the money, they started shouting "Buddha money! Buddha money!" and created quite a scene. They basically spoiled the experience and disturbed the peace of the alms round.

Apparently, the situation has gotten so bad that tourists have been asked to refrain from participating. Other people who had gone to Luang Prabang reported that they were told to just observe and not participate in the Pindapata.

Anyway, the one that was held at BDMS was a simple affair. Although it is not quite how it was practiced in the past, it was a way to let some people partake in an ancient practice. Apparently it was the first time for many people there.

难道是这样？

亲爱的朋友啊
难道鸟必要自焚才能成为凤凰
难道青春必要愚昧
爱 必得忧伤

席慕蓉《回首》末段

为这个世界添一点美丽色彩

在这个世界，有一点希望，有一点失望，我时常这么想。
在这个世界，有一点欢乐，有一点悲伤，谁也无法逃开。
我们的世界，并不像你说的真有那么坏，你又何必感慨。
用你的关怀和所有的爱，为这个世界，添一点美丽色彩。

《四季》 安克强

规则太多

潘利文说：“记不记得你说的？没有爱的性你做不出来？没有性的爱又教你心存遗憾。我想你规则这么多，这辈子别想尝情噬爱了。”

- 《恶水》 亚力山大

Two animal shelters

I went with the Vegetarian Society Singapore to two animals shelters across the border at Pekan Nanas in Johor today.

One was Noah’s Ark Natural Animal Sanctuary (NANAS) and the other was Animal Paradise.

It rained quite heavily about noon today and when we got to NANAS, it was wet. So when we got into the animal shelter, we were greeted by lots of wet paws.


The dogs at NANAS are free ranging and they run about the compound freely.

The cats, on the other hand, roam about in a house of their own, separated from the dogs.

It amazing how much the animals yearned for people's attention and affection. They squeezed around me and let me pet and scratch them. I basically came out all muddied with paw prints.






Over at Animal Paradise, there were no eager dogs to greet us. Instead, it was a big Buddha statue that welcome us to the animal sanctuary. According to the guide it was salvaged from the Haw Par Villa in Singapore.

Things were quite different over at Animal Paradise. There more types of animals. Besides dogs and cats, there were cows, turtles, pigs, camels, monkeys and various birds like pheasants, geese, turkeys and ostriches.

The animals were caged or penned up. According to the guide, the dogs were some times released and roamed with the compounds on days when there are no guests.

But I found the two places quite different and it took me a while to figure out what's was it.

It was affection.


There was a lot more affection at NANAS. The dogs were allowed to roam freely. Visitors are encouraged to interact and get friendly with the dogs. The animals have names and stories behind them. Even the cat house was made like a home. There were a lot more affection and attention give to the animals.

Over at Animal Paradise, the philosophy seems to be different. They came from the perspective of saving lives. I do not doubt that they took good care of the animals. But it appears to lack a little personal touch.

There was a sign that warned against touching and getting close to the animals. While the cages were clean and well kept, and quite spacious, they felt very sanitized, harsh and stark. It does not have the homely feel that NANAS has.

What I did not like was that besides acting as a shelter for abandoned animals, it was also a place for "animal liberation". It's something I could not quite agree with.

Animal liberation is a common practice in Chinese Buddhism. According to the guide, the fishes in the big tanks are "liberated" by several Buddhists groups.

I took a look at the fishes. They were ornamental fishes like koi. And this is where I start to find it a little difficult to understand. I could understand if the intention was to save the fishes from being killed. But in this case, these were ornamental fishes. They were in no danger of being killed. To me, it seems that they were simply being "saved" from a small fish tank and got "liberated" into a bigger fish tank.

While some Buddhists have started to see the problems with modern practices of animal liberation, there are many who still stick to it rather dogmatically. (I'll say the best way of liberation is to liberate them from your dinning table!) This seems to be a case of doing animal liberation for the sake of doing it.

Nonetheless, it is great to see people saving and caring for the animals. I just wish they would reconsider the animal liberation part of their operations.

As we left for dinner, I pondered over the stark difference between the two shelters. The founder of NANAS is a Catholic and the volunteers and supporters are more "English educated" and tends to be those that kept pets. Animal Paradise is sponsored by a Buddhist organisation and the volunteers are Chinese educated. The difference showed in the way the shelters were managed, and I wondered why it would be so ...

《盼望》

其实 我盼望的
也不过就只是那一瞬
我从来没要求过 你给我
你的一生

如果能够在开满了栀子花的山坡上
与你相遇 如果能
深深地爱过一次再别离
那么 再长久的一生
不也就只是 就只是
回首时 那短短的一瞬

《盼望》 - 席慕蓉

Cancellation of Thailand Trip

I had been eagerly anticipating the backpack trip to Thailand's northeast. But I have decided to cancel it given the civil unrest in Bangkok.

I guess by next Monday, flights might have resumed. Safety is probably not an issue although it will be greatly inconvenient if the airport shuts down again.

However, my mum will be greatly worried. It's just not right to let her worry for the whole week while I have a good time there.

Some other time perhaps.

遗忘原来是一种治疗

《禅意》之二

当一切都已过去
我知道 我会
慢慢地将你忘记

心上的重担卸落
请你 请你原谅我
生命原是要
不断地受伤和不断地复原
世界仍是一个
在温柔地等待着我成熟的果园

天这样蓝 树这样绿
生活原来可以
这样的安宁和 美丽

-- 席慕蓉

初读这首诗，原来以为是失恋之后，收拾了心情，重新开始的感情。

昨夜突然有了新的诠释。

原来这不是失恋以后的心情。

这是失去了至爱以后的复原。

遗忘原来是一种治疗。无法忘记过去，无法卸下心中的重担，生活就无法继续。

其实，若有真正的交过心，怎么可能真的忘记？怎么可能把已融入自己的一部分抹去？

要忘记的，是悲伤和心痛。

用留下来的思念，看这蓝天，看这绿树，继续珍惜生活。

Lest we forget

Last year's 23 Nov 2007, five fellow paddlers met an accident and departed. It was day of shock and sadness for the dragon boating community.

As a sign of mourning and for remembrance, I created the above picture.

This year's 23 Nov 2008, I found that I have forgotten, and remembered only when I saw the obituary on the newspaper.

I am not sure how many people paddling at the River Regatta remembered them amid their own joys and disappointments over the races.

If I had remembered, I would have asked my team to observe a minute of silence even as we celebrate our own achievements. But I had forgotten.

We humans are forgetful people aren't we? But that's also a mechanism to cope with loss and pain. Perhaps that's why we need memento like these: lest we forget.

Time to let go

After the exhilaration of winning, what comes is a strange feeling of loss.

The FLUS team is a team I have devoted a lot of time and energy over the past 2 years.

The sport and the team meant a lot to me because it had made a lot of difference in my life.

2 years ago, we were in crisis mode. Our membership had dropped to below 10 when we began the new season after 2006's River Regatta.


At the June race 2007, we came in bottoms among all the racing teams, only slightly ahead of the breast cancer survivors. (I have great respect for the Pink Paddlers. But it quite another matter for a bunch of guys to row not much better for a group of ladies, aunties and grandmas).

There were people who looked down on the team. Even within the team, some thought the team could not achieve anything and moved to the teams.

Yet through it all, some of us persevered. We trained inexperienced newbies from scratch. We maintained an open heart and welcome everyone: all sorts of shapes and sizes, all sorts of fitness level, from all walks of life. Many people left after a while. But some stayed and helped build the team together.

Slowly, we began to see the results of the hard work. When I took over the reins of the team after last year's Regatta, we were no longer down and out.

Through it all, there were many times I feel like giving up. I asked myself why should I do this. Isn't it easier to go join a stronger team and win medals with them, especially when my company's corporate team was doing so well in the corporate category.

But what kept me going on, was when I saw the transformation of the fellow team mates. Seeing how they got fitter and healthier. Seeing how some got more confident and comfortable about themselves. Seeing how many became happier and had a greater sense of well-being. Seeing how everyone was putting so much effort into this, helping and supporting each other, having great fun in the process.

Finally, the team achieved its breakthrough last weekend and we got into the finals.

It was a moment of great satisfaction and pride for me.

But I know, I am not really a great leader. I tried my best to keep the team going. But I do not have what it takes to lead the team to greatness. For the team to grow, I cannot continue to hold a tight rein on it. It was important to groom new leaders and transition leadership. In addition, I wanted to moved on to other things in life and wanted to offload the heavy responsibility of a captain. I had slowly been getting others involved in leading the team. I put in place an election process and we elected a new exco as we celebrated after the race.

Yet, now that the handover time finally comes, I find myself seized by a sense of loss.

There was a time, when I worry about how the team will do when I was not around. When I was away overseas in holidays, I get worried calls from team members when the coach also could not make it. Now, I can be assured that even when the coach and myself are not around, the team is capable of taking care of itself and there are capable teammates to manage the team well.

There is great satisfaction to see the team I put in so much effort to nurture come of age. Yet, I can't help feeling a loss realizing the team does not need me any more. (Of course the team never really did. People will definitely find a way to manage somehow. It was just really my perception because of my attachment to the team.)

I have not been a parent. But I wondered if that's how parents felt, when they realized their children had grown up and no longer need them?

No matter, it's time to let go. For while I will continue to paddle, I do need to move on to other things in life.

Ironies in life

All the hard work and sacrifices the team has made finally culminated into a result we could be proud of.

We had a goal. We had a dream. We wanted a breakthrough.

We wanted to get into the finals of Singapore River Regatta and be among the top teams.

Some times, our hopes where high. Other times, we were fraught with doubt. But we did not give up.

In the end, our hard work paid off, admittedly with a bit of luck. We got the breakthrough we worked so hard for. We got into the plate finals, coming in fourth.

Perhaps to the top teams, this was nothing great to boast of. But for a team we built from scratch, working upwards from the bottom, it was a great achievement for us. It was more than just a just a win in the race. In the process, we proved to ourselves what we are capable of.

The few days before the race, I dreamed that perhaps we could even win something, and I could get up stage and collect a medal for the team. Though I dared not be too hopeful.

As luck would have it, one of the team got a penalty time and we got bumped up from fourth to third!

But we did not realize that third position in the plate finals came with a plate. (Most Plate finals only has a plate for the 1st team). And we went away in joy and exhilaration over our own achievement, and missed the moment of glory of going up stage to get the prize we won for ourselves.

I found that a great irony indeed.

I am sure the team will continue on to achieve greater heights. But I won't be the one who will be going up the stage to collect the prize anymore. The new captain will do that.

However, I am deeply satisfied to have lead the team to its break-through. What was deeply satisfying, was to see the joy on everyone's faces, the tears some people were blinking away, the excitement hidden in their tense bodies, the pride, the sense of fulfillment... those were priceless.

《少年》

《少年》

请在每一朵昙花之前驻足
为那芳香暗涌
依依远去的夜晚留步

他们说生命就是週而复活

可是昙花不是 流水不是
少年在每一份秒的绽放与流动中
也从来不是

-- 席慕蓉

台北游之一个人的寂寞刚刚好

一个人的寂寞其实是可以刚刚好的。

只身去台北，带着一点浪漫情怀，只想逛逛书局，走走博物院，尝尝素食小吃，还有，看看台北冬季的雨 （虽然明明知道十月下旬，台北还没入冬）。

到台北的第二天清晨，一早就往孔庙去。孔庙清雅简朴，说起来是没什么特别的。特别的是，当日有个人在弹吉他，有个人在吹笛子，勾起了一个游人的情绪。

一个人坐院子里，听着亲切的民歌旋律，突然觉得一个人也很不错。一个人乐浸于孔庙的清幽中，无须迁就别人不耐烦急着走，不必担心他人无聊不想留。

一个人逛书局。一人走博物馆。一个人吃素食。

随兴。随意。随缘。

没有牵挂。不必迁就。自由自在。

只有在野柳那一个傍晚，天色黑暗，街灯昏黄。便利店溢出了淡淡白光。公路寂静。车站无人。顿时，陷入了时空交错的状态。

寂寞公路。寂寞车站。寂寞旅人。

虽然都是寂寞，但却无伤感，也没有凄凉。

这六天的寂寞刚刚好，只有自在的清闲，不会太孤单。

我发现，我越来越适应寂寞了。或许，如朋友所说，我嗜上了寂寞的毒。

Jiufen 九份

Jiufen is a small old mining town near Taipei that has become quite a popular tourist destination for day trippers.

There is only one pure vegetarian eatery along the tourist street in this town. It's the "Jinzhi vegetarian meat balls" 金枝素肉圆(See picture). Do note that there are 2 Jinzhi meat balls stall. One stall uses real meat, the other one uses seitan to replace the meat.

The "meat ball" is really a big piece of dumpling, the skin is made from some kind of flour (I think it's glutenous rice) and its filling is seitan with wine lees. The red color comes from the lees left over from a Chinese rice wine making process. Don't worry, there is no alchohol in it.

Each order is only 1 ball (NT$40). It's not going to be enough for a meal. It tastes rather sweet.

Besides the meat balls, on the menu are mushroom balls soup (NT$35) "shark fins" soup (NT$35), plus the same soup with bean vermicelli (NT$60). I had the "shark fins" soup. I don't know what's the relation to "shark fins". It suspect it's a reference some kind of melon or gourd which I find in the soup. It's really not worth it. The amount of vermicelli is too little and the soup is artificially flavoured (tasted like there's lots of MSG in it).


Although there are no other vegetarian eateries, there are plenty of snacks without meat in it.

There are many pastries stalls that sells crispy pastry with various vegetable paste (e.g. yam paste, red bean paste) in its filling. I don't think they use lard, but eggs may be used in the pastries.

In this picture, the stall owner is making peanut candy, which is vegetarian.

I found a BBQ mushroom stall as well. I didn't try it.






Then I discovered a stinking tofu stall. The stall says "Shenkeng Stinking tofu" 深坑. Shenkeng 深坑 is a small town near Taipei which is famous for tofu and one of the popular street food there is BBQ stinking tofu. I decided to try it because a) the sign says it's vegetarian (and I confirmed with the stall owner) and b) it did not smell offending when I was standing directly over the tofu. The tofu is layered with a sauce and then roasted over an electric grill. It turned out to be very delicious (the sauce was really good). It's NT$25 per skewer of tofu.

(BTW, if you ever visit Shenkeng 深坑, look for the Chen Family Tofu Restaurant 陈家豆腐. It's a pure vegetarian restaurant that serves all sorts of tofu dishes. I did not go there, saw this on a guidebook. Dishes reportedly are inexpensive, starts from NT$50 per dish)

Vegetarian Travel - Taipei: Around Gongguan MRT 公馆

I guess the average tourist is unlikely to venture to Gongguan MRT （公馆） area. However, there is a night market around Gongguan MRT. If you find yourself in the area, there are some vegetarian options.

From the MRT station, take the exit towards the Shuiyuan Market 水源市场 (which is in the opposite direction from the night market).

Just in front of the market, I found a Salty Crispy Chicken (盐酥鸡)stall. Salty crispy chicken is a popular Taiwanese street food. I was quite excited when I first saw it. Then I discovered that the "chicken" is just the usual TVP chicken we get back in Singapore and was quite disappoint. However, besides the TVP stuff, there are mushrooms, vegetables and tofu as well. I ordered a portion of mushrooms (NT$40 for one portion, which was about 4 big pieces of shitake mushroom. I discovered that I could have ask for a mix of 2 type of mushrooms later when I saw someone else asked for a mix). The mushroom was chopped, dipped in a batter and then deep fried. It was serve with a salt and pepper sprinkled on it. If you want it spicy, chilli powder will be added. However, I am used to a plainer taste and found it too salty for my liking. I also order a stick of "meat balls", which turned out to be quite delicious. I came to Gongguan twice and was not able to find the stall the second time.

(I did not take any picture of this stall. The picture is taken from a Chinese vegetarian website
You can identify the stall by the red swastik you see in the picture).

If you walked into the Shuiyuan Market from the entrance just behind this alley, you will see a stall with simple and plain sign with just 2 characters declaring it a vegetarian stall (see picture).

This is a simple stall offering a variety of noodles, plus dumplings and rice.

Unfortunately, there is no English menu and I don't think the owner (a middle age old lady) speaks English.

On the counter of the stall, there are several stewed side dishes. You can order of few of these (beside tofu and seaweed, most of the stuff are gluten) and ask for a bowl of rice. (Sides are NT$20-NT$40 I think. And flavoured rice is NT$25)

I ate here twice. First time I had an order of dumplings (水饺）. There are 10 in a portion for NT$40. That's pretty cheap though in terms of taste, it was nothing special.

The second time, I came with an empty stomached and ordered 3 dishes (see picture).

The dish on top was another variety of dumplings, more similar to wanton ("chao shou in hot oil" 红油抄手). NT$35. This was very good.

The dish on the left is stewed tofu (卤豆干). NT$40. Ordinary stuff.

The noodle dish on the right is Noodles in Zhajiang sauce (炸酱面). Quite good.

Besides noodles, fried rice and fried noodles are also available (NT$70). Basically, you get good local food at very cheap price (price is same as roadside stalls, but this is an a market)

As for the rest of Gongguan Night Market, I did not find any vegetarian food. However, I found a steam bun shop (it's a shop, not a roadside stall, along a street that leads to the junction of Xinsheng South road with Rosevelet Road). It's called 蒸功夫 (literally it means Steam Kungfu, with a pun on Real Kungfu). It's not a pure vegetarian shop. It sells meat buns, but I saw on that it also sell Vegetarian buns. (Just a side note: vegetables buns are not necessarily vegetarian buns, because meat is usually added. But this shop indicated that the buns were vegetarian). I loved steam buns, but I was too full when I passed by the shop and so did not try. I did not know if it was really good.

Vegetarian Travel - Taipei: Lunch at Shilin MRT before going to Royal Palace Museum

There is a vegetarian restaurant just in front of the Shilin MRT. It's pretty easy to spot. Once you exit from the MRT station, you should be able to see it on the left side.

Its English name is Vegetarian Kitchen （靜心健康素食坊） and it's on the signboard, so it's easy for the English speaker to identify.

It's a good stop to have your lunch before taking the bus to the Royal Palace Museum.

Baked rice and spaghetti constitue a big part of the menu. I saw a noodle in milk soup dish as well.

For vegans, there are quite a number of non-dairy options. What caught my eye was the spicy tomota soup noodles. It was very tempting though I thought it a little expensive at NT$80. In the end, I settled for a rice set (see picture).

There are 3 options for the rice set: spicy chicken, "3 cups" (3 cups refers to the Chinese recipe which calls for 3 cups of sauces), and a last option which is fish or mutton (can't remember). In Taiwan, fake meat is either TVP (texturized vegetable protein, mostly made from soy) or gluten (from wheat), both of which I am generally not keen on.

What you get with the set is steam rice (mixed with unpolished grains) plus 4 dishes (including one of your choice). I settled for the "3 cups" -- that's the dish to the right of the rice in the picture. It turned out to be a pretty delicious mushroom dish. The set also came with a bowl of soup and a salad. The whole set was NT$80, which was quite a good deal I think.

The side dishes starts from NT$40. Mains (like noodles and rice) starts from NT$60.

More info (in Chinese) about this restaurant: http://summerbin.pixnet.net/blog/post/20569887

我在佛前求了五百年

如何让你遇见我
在我最美丽的时刻 为这
我已在佛前求了五百年
求他让我们结一段尘缘

佛於是把我化作一棵树
长在你必经的路旁
阳光下慎重地开满了花
朵朵都是我前世的盼望

当你走近 请你细听
那颤抖的叶是我等待的热情
而当你终于无视地走过
在你身后落了一地的
朋友啊 那不是花瓣
是我凋零的心

-- 席慕蓉 《一棵开花的树》


原来，席慕蓉的这首诗已成了经典。最近常发现首诗里的那一句“我在佛前求了五百年”的踪迹。

前阵子，在《感恩》这本书就看到这一句。昨天，又看到一本以这一句命名的书。

真的很喜欢这首诗。相信很多人也一样有共鸣。这首诗确实是经典之作。

将你忘记

《禅意》之二

当一切都已过去
我知道 我会
慢慢地将你忘记

心上的重担卸落
请你 请你原谅我
生命原是要
不断地受伤和不断地复原
世界仍是一个
在温柔地等待着我成熟的果园

天这样蓝 树这样绿
生活原来可以
这样的安宁和 美丽

-- 席慕蓉

Vegetarian Travel - Taipei: Around Longshan temple 龙山寺

Longshan temple 龙山寺


Probably because of the presence of a Buddhist temple, there are many vegetarian eateries in the vicinity of Longshan temple(龙山寺).

Most of the eateries are along Xichang Street (西昌街) next to the Longshan temple park, just by the MRT station named after the temple. There are 2 eateries in the small Sanshui St (三水街) off Xichang Street.

If you come here in the morning of afternoon, get your vegetarian food at the eateries along Xichang Street or Sanshui Street. If you come here at night, you can look for more vegetarian food along Xichang Street night market or Guangzhou Street night market.



Sanshui Street 三水街

Probably because I do not know where to look, I found it difficult to get decent breakfast in Taipei. Most of the vegetarian stalls were not yet open before 9am. Thus, I was quite delighted to find Sanshui Street.

Walk in from the Longshan Temple Park and you will find that Sanshui Street is quite a bustling little alley. At the other end of it, there is the Sanshui Market 三水市场. If you like to visit local markets, it's worth taking a look. I found many stalls selling vegetarian ingredients in the market.

There are 2 vegetarian eateries here. One is Hefeng Vegetarian Restaurant （和风素食）. From its name, I think it is Japanese style vegetarian restaurant. It's on the second floor.

Where I ate was the Shangding Huangjia Vegetarian Fried Buns, the green signboard in the picture. It's name sounds real grand (it's something like Supreme Royal Vegetarian Fried Buns), but it's really a street eatery. Most of the customers take away their orders. But there are a few seats inside the restaurants. So you can eat inside there.


The specialty of this stall is fried buns. Buns with bamboo shoots fillings and cabbage fillings are NT$10 each. Buns with vegetables 雪里红 are NT$20. There are fried dumplings 水煎饺 selling for 10 for NT$40 or 5 for NT$20. When I was there for breakfast, there was soy milk as well (NT$10 a bowl). I ordered a portion of fried dumplings, a cabbage bun, a bamboo shoot bun as well as a bowl of soy milk (see picture above). It was a very hearty and satisfying breakfast for NT$70. I preferred the bamboo shoot buns over the cabbage buns though.

The last day I was in Taipei, I came here again for the hot and sour soup, and packed a few buns to eat on the flight. The hot and sour soup was Sichuan style. But I found it strange because I was asked if I wanted it hot (spicy) or sweet. I wanted it hot and they added chilli. The taste was nothing special, but it had a lot of ingredients in the soup. It was not hot and sour enough for me and I had to add a lot more pepper and vinegar to it. But at NT$30, I still thought it was a good deal.

Xichang Street 西昌街

Along the Xichang Street next to the park, I spotted 3 vegetarian eateries and 1 vegetarian pastry shop.

I ate at the Yangshengfugu Vegetarian Restaurant. (养生复古素食馆, see picture below)












The restaurant is on the second floor. It is a "buffet" restaurant. The dishes were laid out at the counter and I picked the dishes I want onto a plate. It was up to the owner's "judgement" how much the food was worth. The plateful I picked in the picture above cost me NT$60, which was quite reasonable. The plate of noodles was NT$40. The soup was free.


There were 2 other restaurants/eateries (see picture on the left) along the same stretch of the street. But I did not try there.

Across the Guangzhou Street, also along Xichang Street, there is another eatery （老牌龙山素菜部） opposite the Dizhang temple (marked 4 on the map above). I had a mushroom soup noodle for dinner there (NT$40), but found it less than satisfying.


Xichang Street night market 西昌街

Most people coming here at night would head to the Huaxi Night Market (Snake Alley) or the Guangzhou Street Night Market and would missed Xichang Street on the other side of the temple.

For those who like porridge and dishes(清粥小菜), I found a road-side stall set up in front of a bank just at the junction of Xichang Street and Guangzhou Street. It is not a pure vegetarian stall, but it has one section with quite a number of vegetarian dishes.

There is a night market along Xichang Street. At the end of the street (marked 5 on the map above) , there is a vegetarian street stall. I had soup noodles for NT$30 and stewed tofu for NT$40.

Guangzhou Street Night Market 广州街夜市

The Snake Alley (Huaxi Night Market) is well known for snake stews. Most of the food stores are seafood stalls. There is nothing much for vegetarians in there.

Towards the end of Guangzhou Street Night Market away from the Longshan temple (labelled 6 on the map), I found a few stalls serving vegetarian food. One of the stall is the usual local food stall selling noodles and stewed tofu and gluten. There is another one selling vegetarian stinking tofu and another stall selling vegetarian crispy fried mushroom (酥炸菇).

Vegetarian Travel - Shilin Night Market, Taipei

士林夜市

One of the highlights of visiting Taipei is to visit the night markets. Among the many night markets, Shilin is probably the biggest and most popular.

Night markets are the places where people indulge in various street eats. However, options for vegetarians are pretty limited.

Fret not. At Shilin, you get to try the various vegetarian version of street eats.

In the covered Shilin Night Market next to the Jiantan MRT station (the big red star next in the map), I counted 4 vegetarian stalls.

There is a stall selling spaghetti and baked rice. For those traveling alone, you get can get your fix of hot pots here as there is a stall that serve personal hot pots.

There are 2 stalls which serve local Taiwanese fare near the back of the market. However, one of the stall was deserted. The other had more patrons. Of course, I went to the one that had more customers. There is probably a reason why the other one is deserted.

I ordered fried stinking tofu(臭豆腐). Initially, I was a little hesitant about ordering this. But my Taiwanese friend said he would eat it if I won't. It turned out to be quite palatable as it did not stink too much.

I also ordered fried oyster omelete （蚵仔煎). There is no "oyster" in it. It is made from soy sheets (豆包)and seaweed, fried with sweet potato starch and some vegetables. Egg was optional. This was a lot nicer than the one I tried at a stall near the Yuanshan MRT.

I also ordered fried wontan (炸馄饨）, which was nothing special, and Taiwanese tempura （甜不辣). Taiwanese "tempura" is really fried fish paste, totally unlikely Japanese tempura which is prawns or vegetables fried in a crispy batter. I found the tempura a little too salty, but otherwise quite tasty. I am not sure what is it made of.

The price of each dish ranges from NT$30 to NT$80.

Besides the covered market next to the MRT, there is a big section of open street market further up along Dadong street (大东路) and Danang street (大南路). I did not find any specific vegetarian food stalls, except for one stall selling fried buns (生煎包) at the junction of Danang street with the main street (Wenlin Street). The stall sells only one flavour -- cabbage fillings. NT$10 each. Near it, there is a stall selling crispy onion pancake (葱油饼), it looked good, but the queue for it was really long. I was not inclined to queue up for it. There is another stall near by selling Indian wraps. It was nan wrapped with curry stuffings. There were three options, chicken, mutton and vegetarian (potato). But I thought it was quite expensive as it was NT$80 each.