What makes a pilgrimage?

The trip to India was not my first pilgrimage trip. However, it was the first time to India and the first visit to the places which the Buddha himself suggested his disciple could go to for pilgrimage.

I had already been to two of four Buddhist pilgrimage centers in China: Mt Emei which is dedicated to the Samantabhadra Bodhisattva and Mt Putuo which is dedicated to Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva. While in Myammar, I joined the pilgrims trekking up the hill up to Kyaiktiyo Pagoda, the famous Golden Rock. In Sri Lanka, I worshipped with the local pilgrims under the Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi tree in Anuradhapura which is said to be a grown from the sapling of the very Bodhi tree under which the Buddha gained enlightenment. I joined the pilgrims at Mihinthale, so significant to the Sri Lankan Buddhists because that is said to be the spot where Buddhism was introduced into Sri Lanka.

I had also made many trips to Thailand, backpacking through the various ancient sites of Buddhist temples, such as Ayuthaya, Sukhothai, Kamphaeng Phet, Si Satchanalai, Lop Buri. I had also been to the old temples in Borobudur and Prambanang in Java.

After a while, I had began to wonder. At what point was a trip a pilgrimage and not a leisurely tour. At what point does a pilgrim becomes a tourist? Is it a pilgrimage if we go in the most comfortable manner, travelling in airconditioned chartered vehicle and staying in five-star hotels, or should a pilgrimage trip be austere, and perhaps entailing some kind of "hardship"? Some pilgrims would go on feet, as seen in the examples of Ajahn Succito and Nick Scott recounted in their book Rude Awakenings: Two Englishmen on foot in Buddhism's Holy Land. The Tibetan Pilgrims would even make a prostration for every step or every three steps in their pilgrimage.


During the pilgrimage, I noticed that many pilgrim groups were full of piousness and solemnity. Many groups were attired in pilgrims white -- the Thais and Sri Lankan's were particularly obvious in this. We met a group from Singapore's Mangala Vihara and they were too all dressed in white. Within the site, they would chant, read the sutras and circum-ambulate. In contrast, our group were quite casual and leisurely. Relaxed and jovial, with jokes flowing quite easily.

I asked Ven. Dhammika about this and he gave an interesting perspective.

First, Ven. Dhammika gave an interesting bit of history behind the Mahabodhi temple. In the 1880s, the British government in India was undertaking the restoration of the temple. The front pavilion of the temple had collapse and it was impossible to know how it originally looked like. Then a small ancient model of the temple was discovered in the ruins nearby, and Belgar, who was supervising the repairs used the model as the basis of his restoration. (See Navel of the Earth, S Dhammika, pp85)

Now what is this small ancient model? It is in fact an ancient tourist souvenir! Just like the tourist souvenirs being sold in Bodhgaya today. This meant that even in ancient times, there were vendors selling tourist souvenirs. The ancient pilgrims were also tourists, buying souvenirs, food and drinks from vendors, using the services of guides and rest houses.

As Ven. Dhammika saw it, a pilgrimage need not be purely religious in nature, full of piety and solemnity with strict observances of precepts and religious observances. It can be part leisure and fun, and part education and learning.

And then I realized, I was probably the one being anal about this. I see others having no qualms about expectations of good services and comfort, dressing up nicely each day, and shopping freely. Yes, most pilgrims are already having fun and enjoying themselves along the journey.

The Pilgrim's journey is just like the Practicioner's journey: along the way of the faithful, one can and probably should be joyful and happy, and learn from the new experiences along the way.