Wednesday, October 1, 2014

Vegetarian in Seoul - Jogyesa Kitchen


Jogyesa in Seoul is the headquarter of the Jogye (漕溪) sect of Zen Buddhism in Korea located in the Jongno/Insadong area. 

Most people looking for vegetarian food in Seoul would know about the two restaurants run by the temple in the Temple Stay building that is directly opposite the main gates of temple. The Baru Gongyang cafeteria on the 2nd floor serves temple food at 8000W for a buffet spread of rice, soup and some side dishes. The one on the 5th floor is the high-end restaurant that requires reservation.

However, I discovered, quite by accident, that Jogyesa runs another vegetarian restaurant called Jogyesa Kitchen. I was walking towards Jogyesa from the Jonggak Station and I turned left into an alley just before the main gates of the temple, thinking the temple is down the alley, and then I discovered the Jogyesa Kitchen.

This is the Jogyesa Kitchen

This is a small self-serve eatery with a limited menu: 3 noodles and 2 rice main courses. Each meal comes with free flow of Kimchi, rice and seaweed soup which you can help yourself to. Drinking water is also available from a dispenser (self service). All meals are just 4000W.


You help yourself to the kimchi, rice and soup from this counter. A video about Buddhism was playing.



One of the male staff was able to speak some English and very patiently and politely explained that I have to buy a meal ticket from the temple's souvenir shop first. When I came back with the meal ticket, he also explained the dishes on the menu. The three types of noodles were: Bibim noodles (i.e. the noodle counterpart of Bibimbap), noodles in hot soup and a "cold noodle".

I knew about the famous Korean rice dish Bibimbap, but I never knew there is a noodle version. So the first time I was here, I choose the Bibim noodles. I was warned that it is a little spicy but I did not find it spicy at all (but I like very spicy food). It was a good choice. The noodle was cold, served with a red spicy looking sauce with some greens and half a hard boiled. The sauce was very delicious and after I finished the noodles, I ate more rice with the sauce.

Bibim noodles, with seaweed soup and kimchi


The Bibim noodle is a bowl of soft noodles in sauce with slices of cucumber, some greens and half an egg.


The second time I came, I had the Janchi Guksu, which was soft noodles in served in a warm broth with some kimchi, seaweed and vegetables. The broth is light but flavorful and would be a hearty meal on a chilling day.

Janchi Guksu -- noodles in hot broth



You can help yourself to the kimchi, rice and seaweed soup. There were two type of cabbage kimchi which looked exactly the same to me. But one was quite heavily fermented and I didn't like it. The other one was nicer but very spicy. The first time I was there, there was even a persimon kimchi! (I never knew you make kimchi out of persimmons) The seaweed soup and the rice was good.

Cabbage and persimmon kimchi




This is the menu which is posted on the wall.

3 noodles:
Janchi Guksu 잔치국수 = noodle in hot broth (looks vegan)
Bibim Guksu 비빔국수 = bibim noodle, cold noodle in spicy sauce (has egg)
miyeok ongshimi 미역 옹심이 = seaweed and potato starch noodles?

2 rice:
On mukbab 언묵밥 (?)
nyeong mukbab 냉묵밥 = (acorn jelly rice ?)

I only had Janchi Guksu and Bibim Guksu. So I am not sure about the rest.

The menu that was posted on the wall


I was there for dinner the first time and it was relatively quiet. I went the second time for lunch at 11:40am and I was glad I was early. It got very crowded and there was a queue waiting for tables by 12pm. I am not sure if it is busy everyday or is it because that day was the new moon day when Buddhists would visit temple for prayers.

This is a simple restaurant that serves simple but delicious vegetarian meals at a very reasonable price of 4000W. But do note that the Bibim noodles came with egg. The Janchi Guksu is vegan as far as I could tell.


Address:
승소식권
Jogyesa Kitchen - Korean noodle & rice
46-10 Susong-dong (45-20 Ujeongguk-ro)
Jongno-gu, Seoul
South Korea


This is the address of the building which turns out to be the address of Jogyesa Temple.



Note: this is NOT in the Temple Stay building. The temple stay building is across the main road opposite the temple, while this is on the same side of the main side of the main road as the temple.
The building is the one directly in front of the main hall and the stupa, but the entrance faces the alley.
If you walk from Jonggak subway station towards Jogyesa, turn left into the alley just before the main gates of the temple. You will see it on the right after a few steps.

If you are inside the temple grounds, you will see this building with an image of the Kuanyin Bodhisattva in front of the stone pagoda. The Jogyesa Kitchen is at the first floor of this building. Walk through the carpark to get to the other side of the building and you will see the Kitchen.


Jogysea Kitchen



Inside the Kitchen

Buy a meal ticket from the temple's souvenir store for 4000W. Tell them "Sengseo" and show 4000W, they will understand. Hand the ticket to the staff at the kitchen. If you don't know what to order, Janchi Guksu is a safe bet. Bibim Guksu is very delicious if you don't mind egg and a little spice. I am not sure about the rest.

Take a seat and wait for your meal. Meanwhile, you can help yourself to some kimchi, rice and seaweed soup. After the meal, clear your bowls and bring them to the counter (just follow what others do).


This is the meal ticket bought from the souvenir store. Hand this over to the staff at the Kitchen.



The brown color poster on the door of the souvenir shop mentions the Jogyesa Kitchen. The name of the restaurant is something like Sengseo Sikguoen in Korean. The 2nd line says 4000W. 

This is an additional option for vegetarians to consider when in Seoul. I have submitted this as a new listing to Happy Cow too.





4 comments:

Shauna said...

Hi there, great review! I'll be heading to Seoul in a couple of weeks and this looks delicious. Do you know opening days and times? xXx

namkhim said...

If I remember correctly, it is 11am - 8pm. Be there early for lunch. I was there at 11:40am, by 11:50am there was a queue waiting for a table.

Evening was quiet when I was there and I went for a few rounds of the seaweed soup. :)

Chez Gourmet said...

Hi,

Just want to check with you, are this restaurant serve garlic & onion?

Because Im pure vegetarian, cant take any garlic & onion.

Thanks

Bee Fong

namkhim said...

I think it does. If I remember correctly, the soup noodles have chives.

Korean Temple vegetarian does not avoid garlic, onion, chives, leek etc.

I have eaten at a few temples. I think I ever saw garlic and onion. But chives was quite common.

For you case, the safest bet is really to eat at the Fo Guang Shan temple cafeteria. They serve strict Chinese Buddhist vegetarian, without garlic, onion, chives, leek. Quite conveniently located near the Dongdae Entrance subway station. Their food is good and inexpensive.