Sunday, November 30, 2008

Two animal shelters

I went with the Vegetarian Society Singapore to two animals shelters across the border at Pekan Nanas in Johor today.

One was Noah’s Ark Natural Animal Sanctuary (NANA
S) and the other was Animal Paradise.

It rained quite heavily about noon today and when we got to NANAS, it was wet. So when we got into the animal shelter, we were greeted by lots of wet paws.


The dogs at NANAS are free ranging and they run about the compound freely.

The cats, on the other hand, roam about in a house of their own, separated from the dogs.

It amazing how much the animals yearned for people's attention and affection. They squeezed around me and let me pet and scratch them. I basically came out all muddied with paw prints.






Over at Animal Paradise, there were no eager dogs to greet us. Instead, it was a big Buddha statue that welcome us to the animal sanctuary. According to the guide it was salvaged from the Haw Par Villa in Singapore.

Things were quite different over at Animal Paradise. There more types of animals. Besides dogs and cats, there were cows, turtles, pigs, camels, monkeys and various birds like pheasants, geese, turkeys and ostriches.

The animals were caged or penned up. According to the guide, the dogs were some times released and roamed with the compounds on days when there are no guests.

But I found the two places quite different and it took me a while to figure out what's was it.

It was affection.


There was a lot more affection at NANAS. The dogs were allowed to roam freely. Visitors are encouraged to interact and get friendly with the dogs. The animals have names and stories behind them. Even the cat house was made like a home. There were a lot more affection and attention give to the animals.

Over at Animal Paradise, the philosophy seems to be different. They came from the perspective of saving lives. I do not doubt that they took good care of the animals. But it appears to lack a little personal touch.

There was a sign that warned against touching and getting close to the animals. While the cages were clean and well kept, and quite spacious, they felt very sanitized, harsh and stark. It does not have the homely feel that NANAS has.

What I did not like was that besides acting as a shelter for abandoned animals, it was also a place for "animal liberation". It's something I could not quite agree with.

Animal liberation is a common practice in Chinese Buddhism. According to the guide, the fishes in the big tanks are "liberated" by several Buddhists groups.

I took a look at the fishes. They were ornamental fishes like koi. And this is where I start to find it a little difficult to understand. I could understand if the intention was to save the fishes from being killed. But in this case, these were ornamental fishes. They were in no danger of being killed. To me, it seems that they were simply being "saved" from a small fish tank and got "liberated" into a bigger fish tank.

While some Buddhists have started to see the problems with modern practices of animal liberation, there are many who still stick to it rather dogmatically. (I'll say the best way of liberation is to liberate them from your dinning table!) This seems to be a case of doing animal liberation for the sake of doing it.

Nonetheless, it is great to see people saving and caring for the animals. I just wish they would reconsider the animal liberation part of their operations.

As we left for dinner, I pondered over the stark difference between the two shelters. The founder of NANAS is a Catholic and the volunteers and supporters are more "English educated" and tends to be those that kept pets. Animal Paradise is sponsored by a Buddhist organisation and the volunteers are Chinese educated. The difference showed in the way the shelters were managed, and I wondered why it would be so ...

Friday, November 28, 2008

《盼望》

其实 我盼望的
也不过就只是那一瞬
我从来没要求过 你给我
你的一生

如果能够在开满了栀子花的山坡上
与你相遇 如果能
深深地爱过一次再别离
那么 再长久的一生
不也就只是 就只是
回首时 那短短的一瞬
《盼望》 - 席慕蓉

Cancellation of Thailand Trip

I had been eagerly anticipating the backpack trip to Thailand's northeast. But I have decided to cancel it given the civil unrest in Bangkok.

I guess by next Monday, flights might have resumed. Safety is probably not an issue although it will be greatly inconvenient if the airport shuts down again.

However, my mum will be greatly worried. It's just not right to let her worry for the whole week while I have a good time there.

Some other time perhaps.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

遗忘原来是一种治疗

《禅意》之二

当一切都已过去
我知道 我会
慢慢地将你忘记

心上的重担卸落
请你 请你原谅我
生命原是要
不断地受伤和不断地复原
世界仍是一个
在温柔地等待着我成熟的果园

天这样蓝 树这样绿
生活原来可以
这样的安宁和 美丽

-- 席慕蓉


初读这首诗,原来以为是失恋之后,收拾了心情,重新开始的感情。

昨夜突然有了新的诠释。

原来这不是失恋以后的心情。

这是失去了至爱以后的复原。

遗忘原来是一种治疗。无法忘记过去,无法卸下心中的重担,生活就无法继续。

其实,若有真正的交过心,怎么可能真的忘记?怎么可能把已融入自己的一部分抹去?

要忘记的,是悲伤和心痛。

用留下来的思念,看这蓝天,看这绿树,继续珍惜生活。

Lest we forget


Last year's 23 Nov 2007, five fellow paddlers met an accident and departed. It was day of shock and sadness for the dragon boating community.

As a sign of mourning and for remembrance, I created the above picture.

This year's 23 Nov 2008, I found that I have forgotten, and remembered only when I saw the obituary on the newspaper.

I am not sure how many people paddling at the River Regatta remembered them amid their own joys and disappointments over the races.

If I had remembered, I would have asked my team to observe a minute of silence even as we celebrate our own achievements. But I had forgotten.

We humans are forgetful people aren't we? But that's also a mechanism to cope with loss and pain. Perhaps that's why we need memento like these: lest we forget.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Time to let go

After the exhilaration of winning, what comes is a strange feeling of loss.

The FLUS team is a team I have devoted a lot of time and energy over the past 2 years.

The sport and the team meant a lot to me because it had made a lot of difference in my life.

2 years ago, we were in crisis mode. Our membership had dropped to below 10 when we began the new season after 2006's River Regatta.


At the June race 2007, we came in bottoms among all the racing teams, only slightly ahead of the breast cancer survivors. (I have great respect for the Pink Paddlers. But it quite another matter for a bunch of guys to row not much better for a group of ladies, aunties and grandmas).

There were people who looked down on the team. Even within the team, some thought the team could not achieve anything and moved to the teams.

Yet through it all, some of us persevered. We trained inexperienced newbies from scratch. We maintained an open heart and welcome everyone: all sorts of shapes and sizes, all sorts of fitness level, from all walks of life. Many people left after a while. But some stayed and helped build the team together.

Slowly, we began to see the results of the hard work. When I took over the reins of the team after last year's Regatta, we were no longer down and out.

Through it all, there were many times I feel like giving up. I asked myself why should I do this. Isn't it easier to go join a stronger team and win medals with them, especially when my company's corporate team was doing so well in the corporate category.

But what kept me going on, was when I saw the transformation of the fellow team mates. Seeing how they got fitter and healthier. Seeing how some got more confident and comfortable about themselves. Seeing how many became happier and had a greater sense of well-being. Seeing how everyone was putting so much effort into this, helping and supporting each other, having great fun in the process.

Finally, the team achieved its breakthrough last weekend and we got into the finals.

It was a moment of great satisfaction and pride for me.

But I know, I am not really a great leader. I tried my best to keep the team going. But I do not have what it takes to lead the team to greatness. For the team to grow, I cannot continue to hold a tight rein on it. It was important to groom new leaders and transition leadership. In addition, I wanted to moved on to other things in life and wanted to offload the heavy responsibility of a captain. I had slowly been getting others involved in leading the team. I put in place an election process and we elected a new exco as we celebrated after the race.

Yet, now that the handover time finally comes, I find myself seized by a sense of loss.

There was a time, when I worry about how the team will do when I was not around. When I was away overseas in holidays, I get worried calls from team members when the coach also could not make it. Now, I can be assured that even when the coach and myself are not around, the team is capable of taking care of itself and there are capable teammates to manage the team well.

There is great satisfaction to see the team I put in so much effort to nurture come of age. Yet, I can't help feeling a loss realizing the team does not need me any more. (Of course the team never really did. People will definitely find a way to manage somehow. It was just really my perception because of my attachment to the team.)

I have not been a parent. But I wondered if that's how parents felt, when they realized their children had grown up and no longer need them?

No matter, it's time to let go. For while I will continue to paddle, I do need to move on to other things in life.

Ironies in life

All the hard work and sacrifices the team has made finally culminated into a result we could be proud of.

We had a goal. We had a dream. We wanted a breakthrough.

We wanted to get into the finals of Singapore River Regatta and be among the top teams.

Some times, our hopes where high. Other times, we were fraught with doubt. But we did not give up.

In the end, our hard work paid off, admittedly with a bit of luck. We got the breakthrough we worked so hard for. We got into the plate finals, coming in fourth.

Perhaps to the top teams, this was nothing great to boast of. But for a team we built from scratch, working upwards from the bottom, it was a great achievement for us. It was more than just a just a win in the race. In the process, we proved to ourselves what we are capable of.

The few days before the race, I dreamed that perhaps we could even win something, and I could get up stage and collect a medal for the team. Though I dared not be too hopeful.

As luck would have it, one of the team got a penalty time and we got bumped up from fourth to third!

But we did not realize that third position in the plate finals came with a plate. (Most Plate finals only has a plate for the 1st team). And we went away in joy and exhilaration over our own achievement, and missed the moment of glory of going up stage to get the prize we won for ourselves.

I found that a great irony indeed.

I am sure the team will continue on to achieve greater heights. But I won't be the one who will be going up the stage to collect the prize anymore. The new captain will do that.

However, I am deeply satisfied to have lead the team to its break-through. What was deeply satisfying, was to see the joy on everyone's faces, the tears some people were blinking away, the excitement hidden in their tense bodies, the pride, the sense of fulfillment... those were priceless.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

《少年》

《少年》

请在每一朵昙花之前驻足
为那芳香暗涌
依依远去的夜晚留步

他们说生命就是週而复活

可是昙花不是 流水不是
少年在每一份秒的绽放与流动中
也从来不是

-- 席慕蓉

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

台北游之一个人的寂寞刚刚好

一个人的寂寞其实是可以刚刚好的。

只身去台北,带着一点浪漫情怀,只想逛逛书局,走走博物院,尝尝素食小吃,还有,看看台北冬季的雨 (虽然明明知道十月下旬,台北还没入冬)。

到台北的第二天清晨,一早就往孔庙去。孔庙清雅简朴,说起来是没什么特别的。特别的是,当日有个人在弹吉他,有个人在吹笛子,勾起了一个游人的情绪。

一个人坐院子里,听着亲切的民歌旋律,突然觉得一个人也很不错。一个人乐浸于孔庙的清幽中,无须迁就别人不耐烦急着走,不必担心他人无聊不想留。

一个人逛书局。一人走博物馆。一个人吃素食。

随兴。随意。随缘。

没有牵挂。不必迁就。自由自在。

只有在野柳那一个傍晚,天色黑暗,街灯昏黄。便利店溢出了淡淡白光。公路寂静。车站无人。顿时,陷入了时空交错的状态。

寂寞公路。寂寞车站。寂寞旅人。

虽然都是寂寞,但却无伤感,也没有凄凉。

这六天的寂寞刚刚好,只有自在的清闲,不会太孤单。

我发现,我越来越适应寂寞了。或许,如朋友所说,我嗜上了寂寞的毒。

Monday, November 17, 2008

Jiufen 九份

Jiufen is a small old mining town near Taipei that has become quite a popular tourist destination for day trippers.

There is only one pure vegetarian eatery along the tourist street in this town. It's the "Jinzhi vegetarian meat balls" 金枝素肉圆(See picture). Do note that there are 2 Jinzhi meat balls stall. One stall uses real meat, the other one uses seitan to replace the meat.

The "meat ball" is really a big piece of dumpling, the skin is made from some kind of flour (I think it's glutenous rice) and its filling is seitan with wine lees. The red color comes from the lees left over from a Chinese rice wine making process. Don't worry, there is no alchohol in it.

Each order is only 1 ball (NT$40). It's not going to be enough for a meal. It tastes rather sweet.

Besides the meat balls, on the menu are mushroom balls soup (NT$35) "shark fins" soup (NT$35), plus the same soup with bean vermicelli (NT$60). I had the "shark fins" soup. I don't know what's the relation to "shark fins". It suspect it's a reference some kind of melon or gourd which I find in the soup. It's really not worth it. The amount of vermicelli is too little and the soup is artificially flavoured (tasted like there's lots of MSG in it).


Although there are no other vegetarian eateries, there are plenty of snacks without meat in it.

There are many pastries stalls that sells crispy pastry with various vegetable paste (e.g. yam paste, red bean paste) in its filling. I don't think they use lard, but eggs may be used in the pastries.

In this picture, the stall owner is making peanut candy, which is vegetarian.

I found a BBQ mushroom stall as well. I didn't try it.






Then I discovered a stinking tofu stall. The stall says "Shenkeng Stinking tofu" 深坑. Shenkeng 深坑 is a small town near Taipei which is famous for tofu and one of the popular street food there is BBQ stinking tofu. I decided to try it because a) the sign says it's vegetarian (and I confirmed with the stall owner) and b) it did not smell offending when I was standing directly over the tofu. The tofu is layered with a sauce and then roasted over an electric grill. It turned out to be very delicious (the sauce was really good). It's NT$25 per skewer of tofu.

(BTW, if you ever visit Shenkeng 深坑, look for the Chen Family Tofu Restaurant 陈家豆腐. It's a pure vegetarian restaurant that serves all sorts of tofu dishes. I did not go there, saw this on a guidebook. Dishes reportedly are inexpensive, starts from NT$50 per dish)


Vegetarian Travel - Taipei: Around Gongguan MRT 公馆

I guess the average tourist is unlikely to venture to Gongguan MRT (公馆) area. However, there is a night market around Gongguan MRT. If you find yourself in the area, there are some vegetarian options.

From the MRT station, take the exit towards the Shuiyuan Market 水源市场 (which is in the opposite direction from the night market).

Just in front of the market, I found a Salty Crispy Chicken (盐酥鸡)stall. Salty crispy chicken is a popular Taiwanese street food. I was quite excited when I first saw it. Then I discovered that the "chicken" is just the usual TVP chicken we get back in Singapore and was quite disappoint. However, besides the TVP stuff, there are mushrooms, vegetables and tofu as well. I ordered a portion of mushrooms (NT$40 for one portion, which was about 4 big pieces of shitake mushroom. I discovered that I could have ask for a mix of 2 type of mushrooms later when I saw someone else asked for a mix). The mushroom was chopped, dipped in a batter and then deep fried. It was serve with a salt and pepper sprinkled on it. If you want it spicy, chilli powder will be added. However, I am used to a plainer taste and found it too salty for my liking. I also order a stick of "meat balls", which turned out to be quite delicious. I came to Gongguan twice and was not able to find the stall the second time.

(I did not take any picture of this stall. The picture is taken from a Chinese vegetarian website
You can identify the stall by the red swastik you see in the picture).

If you walked into the Shuiyuan Market from the entrance just behind this alley, you will see a stall with simple and plain sign with just 2 characters declaring it a vegetarian stall (see picture).

This is a simple stall offering a variety of noodles, plus dumplings and rice.

Unfortunately, there is no English menu and I don't think the owner (a middle age old lady) speaks English.

On the counter of the stall, there are several stewed side dishes. You can order of few of these (beside tofu and seaweed, most of the stuff are gluten) and ask for a bowl of rice. (Sides are NT$20-NT$40 I think. And flavoured rice is NT$25)

I ate here twice. First time I had an order of dumplings (水饺). There are 10 in a portion for NT$40. That's pretty cheap though in terms of taste, it was nothing special.

The second time, I came with an empty stomached and ordered 3 dishes (see picture).

The dish on top was another variety of dumplings, more similar to wanton ("chao shou in hot oil" 红油抄手). NT$35. This was very good.

The dish on the left is stewed tofu (卤豆干). NT$40. Ordinary stuff.

The noodle dish on the right is Noodles in Zhajiang sauce (炸酱面). Quite good.

Besides noodles, fried rice and fried noodles are also available (NT$70). Basically, you get good local food at very cheap price (price is same as roadside stalls, but this is an a market)

As for the rest of Gongguan Night Market, I did not find any vegetarian food. However, I found a steam bun shop (it's a shop, not a roadside stall, along a street that leads to the junction of Xinsheng South road with Rosevelet Road). It's called 蒸功夫 (literally it means Steam Kungfu, with a pun on Real Kungfu). It's not a pure vegetarian shop. It sells meat buns, but I saw on that it also sell Vegetarian buns. (Just a side note: vegetables buns are not necessarily vegetarian buns, because meat is usually added. But this shop indicated that the buns were vegetarian). I loved steam buns, but I was too full when I passed by the shop and so did not try. I did not know if it was really good.

Vegetarian Travel - Taipei: Lunch at Shilin MRT before going to Royal Palace Museum

There is a vegetarian restaurant just in front of the Shilin MRT. It's pretty easy to spot. Once you exit from the MRT station, you should be able to see it on the left side.

Its English name is Vegetarian Kitchen (靜心健康素食坊) and it's on the signboard, so it's easy for the English speaker to identify.

It's a good stop to have your lunch before taking the bus to the Royal Palace Museum.

Baked rice and spaghetti constitue a big part of the menu. I saw a noodle in milk soup dish as well.

For vegans, there are quite a number of non-dairy options. What caught my eye was the spicy tomota soup noodles. It was very tempting though I thought it a little expensive at NT$80. In the end, I settled for a rice set (see picture).

There are 3 options for the rice set: spicy chicken, "3 cups" (3 cups refers to the Chinese recipe which calls for 3 cups of sauces), and a last option which is fish or mutton (can't remember). In Taiwan, fake meat is either TVP (texturized vegetable protein, mostly made from soy) or gluten (from wheat), both of which I am generally not keen on.

What you get with the set is steam rice (mixed with unpolished grains) plus 4 dishes (including one of your choice). I settled for the "3 cups" -- that's the dish to the right of the rice in the picture. It turned out to be a pretty delicious mushroom dish. The set also came with a bowl of soup and a salad. The whole set was NT$80, which was quite a good deal I think.

The side dishes starts from NT$40. Mains (like noodles and rice) starts from NT$60.

More info (in Chinese) about this restaurant: http://summerbin.pixnet.net/blog/post/20569887

Sunday, November 16, 2008

我在佛前求了五百年

如何让你遇见我
在我最美丽的时刻 为这
我已在佛前求了五百年
求他让我们结一段尘缘

佛於是把我化作一棵树
长在你必经的路旁
阳光下慎重地开满了花
朵朵都是我前世的盼望

当你走近 请你细听
那颤抖的叶是我等待的热情
而当你终于无视地走过
在你身后落了一地的
朋友啊 那不是花瓣
是我凋零的心

-- 席慕蓉 《一棵开花的树》


原来,席慕蓉的这首诗已成了经典。最近常发现首诗里的那一句“我在佛前求了五百年”的踪迹。

前阵子,在《感恩》这本书就看到这一句。昨天,又看到一本以这一句命名的书。

真的很喜欢这首诗。相信很多人也一样有共鸣。这首诗确实是经典之作。

将你忘记

《禅意》之二

当一切都已过去
我知道 我会
慢慢地将你忘记

心上的重担卸落
请你 请你原谅我
生命原是要
不断地受伤和不断地复原
世界仍是一个
在温柔地等待着我成熟的果园

天这样蓝 树这样绿
生活原来可以
这样的安宁和 美丽

-- 席慕蓉

Friday, November 14, 2008

Vegetarian Travel - Taipei: Around Longshan temple 龙山寺

Longshan temple 龙山寺


Probably because of the presence of a Buddhist temple, there are many vegetarian eateries in the vicinity of Longshan temple(龙山寺).

Most of the eateries are along Xichang Street (西昌街) next to the Longshan temple park, just by the MRT station named after the temple. There are 2 eateries in the small Sanshui St (三水街) off Xichang Street.

If you come here in the morning of afternoon, get your vegetarian food at the eateries along Xichang Street or Sanshui Street. If you come here at night, you can look for more vegetarian food along Xichang Street night market or Guangzhou Street night market.



Sanshui Street 三水街

Probably because I do not know where to look, I found it difficult to get decent breakfast in Taipei. Most of the vegetarian stalls were not yet open before 9am. Thus, I was quite delighted to find Sanshui Street.

Walk in from the Longshan Temple Park and you will find that Sanshui Street is quite a bustling little alley. At the other end of it, there is the Sanshui Market 三水市场. If you like to visit local markets, it's worth taking a look. I found many stalls selling vegetarian ingredients in the market.

There are 2 vegetarian eateries here. One is Hefeng Vegetarian Restaurant (和风素食). From its name, I think it is Japanese style vegetarian restaurant. It's on the second floor.

Where I ate was the Shangding Huangjia Vegetarian Fried Buns, the green signboard in the picture. It's name sounds real grand (it's something like Supreme Royal Vegetarian Fried Buns), but it's really a street eatery. Most of the customers take away their orders. But there are a few seats inside the restaurants. So you can eat inside there.






The specialty of this stall is fried buns. Buns with bamboo shoots fillings and cabbage fillings are NT$10 each. Buns with vegetables 雪里红 are NT$20. There are fried dumplings 水煎饺 selling for 10 for NT$40 or 5 for NT$20. When I was there for breakfast, there was soy milk as well (NT$10 a bowl). I ordered a portion of fried dumplings, a cabbage bun, a bamboo shoot bun as well as a bowl of soy milk (see picture above). It was a very hearty and satisfying breakfast for NT$70. I preferred the bamboo shoot buns over the cabbage buns though.

The last day I was in Taipei, I came here again for the hot and sour soup, and packed a few buns to eat on the flight. The hot and sour soup was Sichuan style. But I found it strange because I was asked if I wanted it hot (spicy) or sweet. I wanted it hot and they added chilli. The taste was nothing special, but it had a lot of ingredients in the soup. It was not hot and sour enough for me and I had to add a lot more pepper and vinegar to it. But at NT$30, I still thought it was a good deal.

Xichang Street 西昌街

Along the Xichang Street next to the park, I spotted 3 vegetarian eateries and 1 vegetarian pastry shop.

I ate at the Yangshengfugu Vegetarian Restaurant. (养生复古素食馆, see picture below)












The restaurant is on the second floor. It is a "buffet" restaurant. The dishes were laid out at the counter and I picked the dishes I want onto a plate. It was up to the owner's "judgement" how much the food was worth. The plateful I picked in the picture above cost me NT$60, which was quite reasonable. The plate of noodles was NT$40. The soup was free.


There were 2 other restaurants/eateries (see picture on the left) along the same stretch of the street. But I did not try there.

Across the Guangzhou Street, also along Xichang Street, there is another eatery (老牌龙山素菜部) opposite the Dizhang temple (marked 4 on the map above). I had a mushroom soup noodle for dinner there (NT$40), but found it less than satisfying.


Xichang Street night market 西昌街

Most people coming here at night would head to the Huaxi Night Market (Snake Alley) or the Guangzhou Street Night Market and would missed Xichang Street on the other side of the temple.

For those who like porridge and dishes(清粥小菜), I found a road-side stall set up in front of a bank just at the junction of Xichang Street and Guangzhou Street. It is not a pure vegetarian stall, but it has one section with quite a number of vegetarian dishes.

There is a night market along Xichang Street. At the end of the street (marked 5 on the map above) , there is a vegetarian street stall. I had soup noodles for NT$30 and stewed tofu for NT$40.

Guangzhou Street Night Market 广州街夜市

The Snake Alley (Huaxi Night Market) is well known for snake stews. Most of the food stores are seafood stalls. There is nothing much for vegetarians in there.

Towards the end of Guangzhou Street Night Market away from the Longshan temple (labelled 6 on the map), I found a few stalls serving vegetarian food. One of the stall is the usual local food stall selling noodles and stewed tofu and gluten. There is another one selling vegetarian stinking tofu and another stall selling vegetarian crispy fried mushroom (酥炸菇).

Vegetarian Travel - Shilin Night Market, Taipei

士林夜市

One of the highlights of visiting Taipei is to visit the night markets. Among the many night markets, Shilin is probably the biggest and most popular.

Night markets are the places where people indulge in various street eats. However, options for vegetarians are pretty limited.

Fret not. At Shilin, you get to try the various vegetarian version of street eats.

In the covered Shilin Night Market next to the Jiantan MRT station (the big red star next in the map), I counted 4 vegetarian stalls.

There is a stall selling spaghetti and baked rice. For those traveling alone, you get can get your fix of hot pots here as there is a stall that serve personal hot pots.

There are 2 stalls which serve local Taiwanese fare near the back of the market. However, one of the stall was deserted. The other had more patrons. Of course, I went to the one that had more customers. There is probably a reason why the other one is deserted.

I ordered fried stinking tofu(臭豆腐). Initially, I was a little hesitant about ordering this. But my Taiwanese friend said he would eat it if I won't. It turned out to be quite palatable as it did not stink too much.

I also ordered fried oyster omelete (蚵仔煎). There is no "oyster" in it. It is made from soy sheets (豆包)and seaweed, fried with sweet potato starch and some vegetables. Egg was optional. This was a lot nicer than the one I tried at a stall near the Yuanshan MRT.

I also ordered fried wontan (炸馄饨), which was nothing special, and Taiwanese tempura (甜不辣). Taiwanese "tempura" is really fried fish paste, totally unlikely Japanese tempura which is prawns or vegetables fried in a crispy batter. I found the tempura a little too salty, but otherwise quite tasty. I am not sure what is it made of.

The price of each dish ranges from NT$30 to NT$80.

Besides the covered market next to the MRT, there is a big section of open street market further up along Dadong street (大东路) and Danang street (大南路). I did not find any specific vegetarian food stalls, except for one stall selling fried buns (生煎包) at the junction of Danang street with the main street (Wenlin Street). The stall sells only one flavour -- cabbage fillings. NT$10 each. Near it, there is a stall selling crispy onion pancake (葱油饼), it looked good, but the queue for it was really long. I was not inclined to queue up for it. There is another stall near by selling Indian wraps. It was nan wrapped with curry stuffings. There were three options, chicken, mutton and vegetarian (potato). But I thought it was quite expensive as it was NT$80 each.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Vegetarian in Taipei

Vegetarian food is easily available in Taipei. For those who know Chinese, there should not be any problem finding vegetarian food.

For the English speaker who can't read Chinese, it may be difficult to identify them. There are very few English signs.

Lonely Planet says to look for the Buddhist swastika sign, (卍) usually in red. But I found that few vegetarian restaurants actually have that sign.

Thus, the most important way to to identify vegetarian food, the important Chinese character to recognize is the word su 素 (see the picture if you can see this word on your computer) , its pronunciation is similar to "shoo".

However, do note that some stall or restaurants have the word "可素食", meaning "vegetarian available" or "suitable for vegetarian". In most cases, that means the food may not be pure vegetarian, but can be made without meat upon request.

As milk is normally not used in Chinese cooking, vegans should not have any problems too. I was a little surprised that eggs was used in some vegetarian places where I ate, they will always asked if it is alright to use egg. However, there are a few vegetarian restaurants selling Italian fare like pasta and spaghetti. Milk and cheese would be used in those restaurants.

As most people are vegetarian for religious reason, onion and garlic are normally not used in vegetarian food. Some snacks food such as the onion pancake (葱抓饼)do not contain any meat, but as it contains onion, it is not labeled as "su" 素.

For cheap vegetarian eats, vegetarian noodles can be had for NT$30 to NT$40 at road side stalls or small eateries.

There are also "buffets". These simple restaurants have many dishes laid out at the counter and you help yourself to the dishes you want. The price of the food is either based on weight or based on the owners "discretion".

Then there are the type of buffets in which you pay a single price and you eat all your can. Those are more expensive and nicer restaurants. Prices starts from NT$200 per person. I had an all-you-can-eat hot pot buffet which worked out to be NT$400 per person. That's about S$20, which is quite alright.

台北游之书乡书香

说台北是书乡,一点也不过分。

书局到处都是。出版刊物也多得目不暇给。

晶晶书局是慕名已久的书局。第一天抵台,就马上往晶晶跑一趟。书局比印象中还要小。书籍刊物也没想象中的多。但是,新加坡毕竟没有同志专门书局,我还是第一次看到这么多中文同志书刊。我很自制地、有选择性地选书,但结帐时,还是超出预算了。

重庆南路果然是名不虚传的书街。短短一段路里,不知道有多少间书局。我根本无法每间都逛。因为我有其中两间的优惠卡,所以就只专攻这两间。三小时后我背着满满的背包,提着一大袋的书刊离开。

中山捷运站和双莲捷运站之间的地下书街是看到捷运站中的广告才知道的。一整条地下街,尽是书局。不过,这里的书局都是小型的,卖的多数是流行文化、奇趣、食谱、消闲书刊。这里多数书都有85折,有些是倾销书,十分便宜。

原来并无意去诚品买书,因为诚品书局没有折扣。但是诚品这么出名,不买也得看看。到了诚品旗舰店逛了一下,还是买了几本书。这书局有够大的。好几层楼都是书。地方宽敞,又有桌椅,可以坐下慢慢看。相比,重庆南路的书局虽然起码都有九折,但是地方狭窄,人多时并不容易找书。慢慢看着,看见几本喜欢的,还是买了下来。因为懒得跑回重庆南路找。其中,《张先生。曹先生》是六年前出版的,之前在重庆南路找不到,竟在诚品这里看到了。诚品的畅销榜的书有85折,所以我也买了上榜的《柜子里的彩虹》。

逛旧书店的的乐趣就是无法预料能找到什么书,所以找到喜欢的书时,确实是有种惊喜。

在公馆夜市附近看到几间旧书书局,进去逛逛,却没收获。或许是靠近大学的关系,这里的书多数是学术性的。反而是在士林夜市有意外的收获。剑潭捷运站旁的士林临时市场里有一间旧书书局。这里意外找到几本同志文学,一些书3本才NT$100。在这里找到了《盛夏光年》。虽然我家里已有了一本,但我还是买下来了,因为想捐一本给Pelangi Pride Centre。

在九分,我意外地找到九份乐伯二手书店(地址,九份佛堂街31号,基山街221号旁)。这间书店的小说散文集还真多。书价是标价打五折,再来85折,真的很便宜。这里的惊喜还真不少。

我进来第一眼就看到了席慕蓉的《七里香》。我两天前才在重庆南路以NT$190买了新的,这本像新一样才NT$105。我买下了,如果遇到喜欢席慕蓉的诗的,可以送人。 在二楼的旧书堆里,我找到了安克强的《我恋你依然如昔》。这可是十多年前我在图书馆借过的一本书,是早期接触到的同志文学之一,印象挺深。买!还有找到了许佑生的《男婚男嫁》和《最佳单恋得主》,李月华的《红颜男子》,蔡康永的《那些男孩教我的事》。

离开九份,我带走的不是游客的手信,而是一袋的书。

离开台北前,我又去了一趟晶晶书局,因为要为朋友买一本杜达雄的摄影集。这次发现了安克强主编的世纪同志爱读本系列。之前没看到。三本《青春放歌》、《爱恋无悔》和《第三者》都买下。同时,也买下张曼娟主编的《同辈》。我也买了《亲爱的爸妈,我是同志》,打算看完后捐给Pelangi Pride Centre。

若不是行李重量有限制,我可以买很多的书。但是超额的附加费太贵,加上去就不划算。因此,只能有选择的买一些新加坡找不到的书。

最后一天在台北,从中正纪念堂走到历史博物院时,看到了一间挺大的书局,全面85折,真想进去。最后还是打消念头,因为行李真的已经太重了。

这次,从台北带回来的,除了回忆,就是书了。

华健的歌

每个人心中都有一首华健的歌。
每一首华健的歌
都有一个我的故事。

取自《伤心的歌》MV

今天,天气特别阴冷。

今天,天气特别阴冷。
回想起来,我的青春岁月也多半和这种天气型态相去不远。
很晚启蒙,不像你。
不够自信,不像你。
不过,我仍会很努力活着的。
因为我知道还有很多值得追求的幸福。
除了那些璀璨的水男孩,和梦幻派对及健身房里,看得见却永远无法认识的男孩之外,我知道,还有还有很多值得追求的幸福。

《男湾》 垦丁男孩

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

一开始我们是简单的

一开始我们是简单的。

简单的高中制服跟白色内裤... ... 简单的书包放着他写给我那一堆密密麻麻丑丑的字... ...简单的毕业典礼送完礼物分道扬镳... ...简单的争风吃醋还有我曾经为你哭。

一开始我们是简单的,后来事情有了些变化... ...


取自《男湾》 推荐序二

寂寞公路、寂寞车站、寂寞旅人

2008年10月27日

离开野柳风景区时,天色已暗。

还不到六点,野柳小镇已打烊。除了几间海鲜餐馆,街上店门都已锁上。

冷清的街道,路人寥寥无几。港口里的渔船默默地晃着。昏暗的码头,几个孤寂的影子呆呆地望着暮色。我惊动了一只野狗,只见它冲忙地衔走一个袋子,生怕我抢走它的宝贝似的。

车站,就在路口,在一间7-eleven便利店前。整条街,只有这便利店还开着。店内只见收银婶婶和另一欧巴桑在闲聊着。

我一个人,站在车站前。路灯昏黄。便利店溢出淡淡白光。

寂寞的公路。寂寞的车站。寂寞的旅人。

我突然掉入了异度空间,有种时间和空间上的错觉。

公路静寂。久久,听到了逼近的引擎声,再看见车灯打在屋子上,最后才看见公车弯了过来。

是基隆客运。

我继续等。

后来,早先在野柳风景区看见的小两口也走来车站。他们俩亲密地在车站等候,牵着手,轻声哝哝。

车站前,独角戏变成了三人行。寂寞的人突然更寂寞。

不久后,往台北的国光客运来了。

小雨开始打落。外面一片漆黑,什么也看不见。公车似乎是在穿梭空间,把我从寂寞的异度空间带回霓虹光亮的台北,带回现实世界来。

Sunday, November 9, 2008

A wild goose tale

If you were once crawling on the ground, and now having taken to the sky, when you look down and see your former peers, do you regard them with contempt and disdain, or would you have empathy and compassion for them? Or have you flown so high that they are out-of-sight and out-of-mind.

Sometimes, we forget where we come from. Perhaps it was because the past had been difficult and we would rather forget it. Perhaps our world has opened up so much that the past seemed so miserable and insignificant. Perhaps the heights have made us giddy and forgetful.

But I find it really sad, to see people turning their backs on those peers, the very people who supported and encouraged them, when they were similarly struggling at the bottom.

I understand that, having discovered a bigger world, and realizing it is possible to achieve higher, it can be frustrating to see those peers seemingly unwilling to make the effort to elevate themselves. I understand that having achieved something once thought impossible, there is the aspiration to achieve even higher, to fly to the limits of the sky. I understand that the breakthrough is achieved through great personal effort, through sheer determination and struggles. I understand, because I have been through some of these states at some point in time. But I realize these are never reasons to despise the same people who have helped us when we were in humbler situations.

I do not ask that people let their past and former peers hold them back from their potential, from soaring to the heights their ability can bring them to. I only wish that people would not forget where they come from.

Perhaps, it's because I am not a high-flyer. If I take to sky, I am alright flying low. I would help others to take flight, and be satisfied with seeing them soar to the sky, flying far and high.

The Chinese says that the sparrow knows not the wild goose's aspirations. But the sparrow was once friend to the goose before he took to the skies. And one day, when tiredness sets in and the time comes for the goose to leave his high-flying peers and come down to rest, it may be the sparrow who is still there to provide comfort and support.

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Wanderer in Taipei - Day 6

Taipei day 6 - 29 Oct


Last day in Taipei

My flight was scheduled to leave Taoyuan Airport at 6pm. So I had plenty of time for one last look at Taipei and planned to drop by some parks and museums.

I lugged my heavy luggage to the Taipei Main Station and put all my luggage in a big locker. It costs NT$100 for one day use. It was a good thing I had scouted out the place early and found out where the lockers were. It was tough lugging a heavy luggage weighing more than 20kg even though it had wheels. Definitely not very ergonomic.






Peace Park (二二八和平公园)




I then went to the 228 Peace Park. This was the park that was known as the New Park and was the setting for the famous novel Crystal Boys (孽子)by Bai Xianyong (白先勇). The park was unlike what I expected. I had imagine it a big park with lots of trees. It was a lot smaller than I thought and was quite an open park, with the trees sparsely planted. I remembered from the novel that the pond on which the pavillions stood were filled with lotus flowers. What I found was there the pond were bare and empty, with only a few isolated cluster of lilies.


Chiang Kai Shiek Memorial Hall (中正纪念堂)

The Chiang Kai Shiek Memorial Hall was huge monument. At first I thought it was a big structure built for no other reason then to house a statue Chiang Kai Shiek (蒋介石). Of course I was wrong. The huge structure was actually a multi-storied building. Approach from the front, it looked like a giant shrine. But there were ground level entrances from the sides which give access to the exhibition halls within the building.

Very much like the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall, the Chiang Kai Shiek Memorial Hall had a number of galleries and exhibition halls and was buzzing with activities. There were of course exhibition halls dedicated to Chiang Kai Shiek. However, there were also other exhibition going on. There was a series of sculptures of mothers by a Taiwanese artist.

It happened that there was an exhibition of a mammoth going on. The entrance fee was NT$200. I was not sure if the exhibition will ever get to Singapore and I thought it was interesting enough to check it. It was not a very big exhibition, but there will many interesting information about elephants and mammoth. There was a construction of the mammoth skeleton from fossil bones. But the focus of the exhibition was the mammoth head that was unearthed in ... It had been preserved in permafrost and the skin, flesh and wool was still intact. It was keep in a refrigerated glass box.


I swooned at CKS Memorial Hall


There was a group of students exercising in front of the memorial hall and their coach caught my eyes. I have not spotted too many good looking guys in Taipei. And here was a very attractive guy. When he spoke, he voice was deep and clear, projected very well. I'll confess I swooned.






National Museum of History (国立历史博物馆)

It appeared to me that the National Museum of History in Taipei is being over-shadowed by the Royal Palace Museum and is being over-looked.

While it is of a much smaller scale, I found it to be as interesting as the Palace Museum. The admission to the museum was only NT$30 and it is almost deserted when I was there.

Of particular interest to me was the Buddhist stone sculptures and stele on the first floor of the museum from the Northern and Southern dynasties.

The second floor had a display of snuff bottles. I am not particularly interested in snuff bottles. However, what I found interesting that it had snuff bottles of many different type material with different type of art work on it. There was also a corner about the coffee culture and history in Taiwan.

On the third floor, there was, among other things, a collection of bronze wares from the Warring States Period and porcelain from Tang dynasty, which are similar to what you can find in the Royal Palace Museum. There was also a few very old Tibetan Buddhist tangkas.

There was an exhibition of Japanese calligraphy going on when I was there. The works were very interesting as they were all brush works of Kanji characters (Chinese characters) in a rather pictorial form.

The Bontanical Gardens 植物园

The Bontanical Gardens was just behind the Museum of History. It was about 1:30pm when I got out of the Museum. I was hungry and tired and my legs were hurting. I decided to skip the gardens.

As I walked pass the gate of the garden I took a look at the map and what caught my eye was that there is a corner in the garden known as Sutra Garden. My interest perked, I decided to drop in and take a quick look.

It turned out to be quite a pleasant garden. I would like to have spend more time in the garden if I wasn't so tired and had more time. It took more a while to find the sutra garden because strangely it was not on the maps within the gardens.

The sutra garden was a corner where it had various trees mentioned in the Buddhist scriptures. It had the Sankrit name as well as the scripture in which the tree was mentioned. It was quite interesting, but I did not have much time to linger and I could not recognize most of the trees nor scriptures to related very well to them.

20kg of books

When I got out of the garden, I was running late. I head to Longhshan Temple area to grab a quick lunch and rushed back to Taipei Main Station to get my luggage. It was 3:45pm when I got onto the airport bus, 45 minutes behind my planned schedule.

Strangely the check-in counters were deserted at the airport. Well I got checked in with still time to catch my breath before boarding.

I had been a little worried that my luggage was too heavy. The check-in luggage turned out to be 19.6 kg, just a little shy of the 20kg limit. I guessed hand carry-on luggage was probably another 8 to 10 kg. Books sure are heavy. I did a count when I got back. I bought a total of 46 books, including 10 which my sister wanted.

It had been a fun trip and I decided I'd like to come back again.

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Wanderer in Taipei - Day 5

Taipei day 5 - 28 Oct


Longshan Temple (龙山寺)
I started the day heading to Longshan Temple again. It thought it would be interesting to take a look at the temple in the day time.

While looking for some breakfast, I found the stall selling fried buns which I was looking for the previous night. I had an hearty breakfast of 10 fried dumplings, 2 fried buns and a bowl of soy milk. I had not had any decent breakfast for the past few days and this was pretty satisfying.

Longshan Temple in the morning has a different buzz from the night and the atmosphere was quite different. There was chanting going on and I recognized some of the sutras being chanted in Hokkien. The temple, being an old temple, did not have the large prayer halls which some of the newer temples have. The congregation were all lined up along the corridors and open spaces, with the tourists and other devotees weaving in and out in between.

In spite of the Buddhist elements, I found that it is really more of a Taoist temple. It seems to be a community hub in the area too and there were quite a number of old folks who appear to be just hanging around.

From the temple, I went along Sanshui Street (三水街) and saw that there was a Sanshui Market (三水市场). When I travel, I do like to take a look at local markets. It gives you a glimpse of some aspect of local life. I found that there were quite a number of stalls selling vegetarian food stuff in the market. It would seem to me that there is quite a significant number of vegetarians around.


Heritage and Culture Education Center of Taipei 台北市乡土教育中心

As I walked out from the market at the other end, I chanced upon a local folk museum that is not on any of the tourist maps. It was few admission and so I went it and took a look. It turned out to be quite an interesting museum.

There is one section with exhibits on Chinese medicine and another section on the old education system. There was also some cultural history about the area around the Longshan temple. What was nice is that a lot of the exhibits are "interactive". You can tinker and play with some of the exhibits. Open up the medicine box and the screen with provide information about the properties of the medicine. Try and weigh the herb with the small balance scales.

The center looked like it was newly set up and the building was actually preserved from a half torn old buildings. Apparently, the authorities had sent in a demolition squad and started tearing down the buildings before a public outcry halted it.


Ximending and the Cinema Street 西门町

From there, I continued to walk to Ximending, the shopping belt. When I found the cinema street, I found that the publicity posters for the Thai movie Love of Siam was still around. But unfortunately it was not on the screen anyway. It was too bad as I would have loved to watch it on the big screen. My friend told me that it did not do well at the box office and when he went to watch the movie, there were only less than 10 people in the whole cinema.

Before I came to Taiwan, I had already heard about the buzz around the local movie Cape Number 7 (海角7号). There had not been a local Taiwanese that was so popular for a while. I knew the movie would be going to Singapore in a few month's time, but I was interested in what's the buzz about. Since I was feeling pretty tired from running around for the past few days, I didn't mind spending 2 hours relaxing in the cinema. I bought tickets for the 11am show and it cost NT$210, which is comparable to the prices in Singapore. This being a weekday morning, there were few other people, except for a big group of uncles and aunties who came together for the movie.

I won't comment much about the movie other than to say that I won't mind catching it again when it comes to Singapore.

Ximending area is just a shopping area. I walked around the area a bit, but I no intention of doing any shopping and found no reason to linger around the area.


Sun Yet Sen Memorial Hall 国父纪念馆


I was surprised to find that the Sun Yet Sen Memorial Hall is really more than a memorial monument.

There were exhibition halls with paintings and calligraphy exhibits. The corridors were line with art works and photographs. There was a reading center where I found many people reading books and newspaper. In a lecture room, a documentary about Alaska was screening. I went and watched it for a while, before I got distracted by the change of guards. A group of arts students were painting the environs. The park around the hall was busy too and there were a few people trying to fly their kites.

I found that there were more local using the place than there were tourists. I thought that was very nice to make a memorial hall a place that functions almost like community center.





Eslite flagship store
诚品书局旗舰店

The Eslite flagship store was not far from the Sun Yet Sen Memorial hall. I have heard a lot about the Eslite bookshops. It's the biggest big shop chain in Taiwan with the biggest store. It also has a 24 hours bookstore.

Indeed, the bookshop lived up to its reputation. It was a huge store occupying a few stories. It had a wide range of books. What was nice is that it was spacious and had tables and seats for people to browse.

I had not intend to buy any books since my luggage really getting quite heavy and Eslite does not give any discounts (whereas the bookshops along Chongqing South Street [重庆南街] generally had at least 10% discount off the list price).

But I ended up still buying a few books. One was one the bestseller list and had a 15% discount on it. Another book was published 7 years ago and was not available when I looked at the other bookshops.


Taipei 101 台北101

Since I was in the vicinity, it made sense to drop by the Taipei 101. After all, it is the landmark of Taipei. I went around the building and found an angle which I took made it look like a pagoda.


Gin Gin Bookshop and Shida Night Market

I had to went back to Gin Gin bookshop (晶晶书局) to get a book for a friend. I also wanted to get some more books.

From Taipei 101, I took a bus to Gongguan (公馆) MRT station. What I like about the bus system in Taipei is that there is a clear bus directory for each bus service at the bus stop. In the bus, there is a LED panel which indicates the bus stops. In some buses, the bus driver also announce the stops. So it was quite easy to use the bus system.

I had dinner at the vegetarian stall in the Shuiyuan Market, the same stall were I had the dumpling the first night I was in Taipei. Then I head back to Gin Gin.

I got the book my friend wanted. I saw the collection of short stories by An Keqiang (安克强) which I had missed earlier and bought all three of them. I also found the books "Dear father and mother, I am gay." I flipped through and found that it had accounts of how gay people deal with their parents as well as how parents handled their children's homosexuality. I thought it would be good to add to the Pelangi Pride Centre's collection. I would donate to the library after I read it. Again, I ended up buying more than I had intended to.

As I missed the Shida Night Market (师大夜市) the first night, I decided to look for it again. This time, I found it. Being right by the teachers' college, this night market was slightly different from the rest, as it catered mainly to the young college students.

When I head back to the guest house, I started packing my luggage. Now I was really concerned that I had exceeded my luggage allowance. The luggage felt heavier than the 20kg dumb bell I carried in the gym. I put as many books as possible in my carry on backpack, and packed aways some books and clothes which I decided I could discard if it the charges for extra weightage was too much.